Every year, I ask Martin what kind of cake he wants for his birthday and every year he replies with one word— “fluffy”. It drives me crazy! He never cares about flavor or frosting or fillings, but fluffiness is his peak concern. Maybe, sometime soon, I will learn to stop asking. In the meantime, he will get the fluffiest cake I know—chiffon cake.

What is exactly is a chiffon cake, you ask? Excellent question, one I wish I could give a definitive answer to. In my cakes class in pastry school, our chef taught us that chiffon cakes are similar to angel food cakes in that they rely on egg whites for their leavening. The key difference, she said, was that chiffon cakes also include some sort of carbonated ingredient like club soda, seltzer, or even champagne. When I began testing this recipe, I embarked on my own chiffon cake research and could find absolutely nothing on the internet about carbonation being a mark of a chiffon cake. So who knows? What I can tell you, is that a chiffon cake does rely on the use of egg whites for it’s lift, includes some fat (angel food cake does not), and is endlessly fluffy. Also, I don’t think it would be a bad idea to start incorporating more champagne in cakes.

This espresso chiffon cake is layered with the silkiest ganache buttercream and enough salted caramel for it to ooze out the sides. It feels sultry (is that a word I can use to describe cake??) and romantic and like a messy bun updo, it’s just the right amount approachable and elegant. I highly recommend doubling the ganache buttercream and keeping the leftovers in your fridge for all the leftover cake scraps.

Espresso Chiffon Layer Cake with Chocolate Ganache Buttercream

Yield: 1 8” 4-layer cake or two 5” 3-layer cakes

Ingredients: 

for the cake: 

7 eggs, separated 

1 tbsp vanilla extract 

1/2 tsp kosher salt

1 cup + 2 tbsp (8 oz; 230 g) granulated sugar

2 tsp baking powder

1/2 cup (4 oz) neutral oil

2/3 cup (5 oz) strong brewed espresso

1 1/2 cup (9 oz; 260 g) all purpose flour 

for the chocolate ganache buttercream: 

recipe from Tartine

8 oz (225 g) dark chocolate, chopped 

1 cup (240 g) heavy cream

1/2 cup (100 g) granulated sugar

10 T (140 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature 

for the salted caramel: 

recipe from Bobby Flay via NYTimes Cooking 

1 cup granulated sugar 

1/2 cup heavy cream 

2 T unsalted butter

1 tsp kosher salt 

Procedure: 

to make the cake:

1. Preheat oven to 325° F. 

2. In a small bowl, stir together granulated sugar and baking powder.

3. In the bowl of a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine egg whites, vanilla, and salt. Whip on medium-low speed until whites are frothy then, with the mixer running, stream in granulated sugar and baking powder. When all of the sugar is added, increase the mixer speed to medium-high and whip until a loose, silky meringue forms. When you pull the whisk out of the meringue, it should leave a ribbon mark that somewhat holds it’s shape. 

4. Meanwhile, in a large mixing bowl, whisk together egg yolks, oil, and espresso. Add flour, and continue to whisk. This should be a thick paste-like batter. 

5. Using a rubber spatula, add a small amount (one scoop, about 1/2 cup) of the meringue to the batter. Mix this vigorously until fully combined. (Doing this lightens up the batter and makes it easier for the meringue to be folded in.)

6. Gently fold the remaining meringue into the batter in 3 batches, adding more only when the previous amount is combined. 

7. When everything is mixed together, the batter should be light and fluffy, a light-tan in color, and there should be no meringue streaks left. 

8. Divide batter evenly into 2, ungreased and unlined 8” cake pans and bake for 25-30 minutes, until cake is set and a toothpick comes out clean when inserted. 

9. Immediately flip the cakes over onto a wire cooling rack, but do not remove the pans. Allow cakes to cool upside-down in the pans for at least 30 minutes, until cooled throughly. When cool, you can remove the cakes from the pans and set aside until you are ready to assemble.

to make the ganache buttercream:

1. Place chopped chocolate in a heat-proof glass bowl set over a double boiler. Heat, stirring occasionally until chocolate is completely melted and set aside. 

2. In a small saucepan set over medium heat, combine heavy cream and sugar. Heat until sugar is dissolved and small bubbles begin to appear around the edges of the pot. Pour half of the cream mixture into the melted chocolate and whisk to combine. Add the remaining cream to the chocolate and whisk until the mixture is completely emulsified. 

3. Add the butter, a couple of cubes at a time, and whisk until completely melted and homogenized and then whisk a minute longer. 

4. Cover the frosting with plastic wrap and let sit to cool at room temperature for at least 6 hours until thickened slightly. 

to make the salted caramel:

1. In a medium saucepan set over medium-high heat, combine sugar and 1/4 cup water. Without stirring, cook sugar until a deep amber color.

2. While the sugar is cooking, heat cream in the microwave or a small saucepan until slightly warm to the touch, just to remove the chill. Remove caramel from the heat and slowly whisk in heavy cream. (Caramel will bubble up, this is normal.)

3. Return to the heat, and cook another minute or two. Add butter, whisking until combined, followed by salt. Remove from heat and let cool completely.