La Vina Cheesecake

A traditional Basque dessert recipe, this La Viña style cheesecake is a sweet, creamy treat. Baked without a crust for that "burnt cheesecake" quality, this is a great recipe for a traditional Basque cheesecake. Recipe from Marti Buckley’s Basque Country.

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I recently joined the Saveur Cookbook club (as if I needed any extra motivation to buy more cookbooks). Each month, a new book is selected and people from all over the world share pictures, tips, and reviews as they cook and bake their way through the pages. I was excited that this month’s selection was Basque Country by Marti Buckley, a book from a region and cuisine that I am fascinated by, but I don’t think I would have sought out on my own.

Part history book, part cultural guide, and part culinary handbook, Basque Country goes so much deeper than just recipes. I learned about the different regions, languages, climate, and traditions before I even reached the “Soups” section and I know that I am going to be learning from and cooking through this book for much longer than the month.

If I could choose one word to describe the cuisine from the Basque region, it would be simple. I don’t mean simple as a synonym for “easy”, but as an approach to ingredients that allows them to speak for themselves. The people and culture of the Basque region find tremendous value in the foods that their land and seas produce and they don’t try to cover them up in long ingredient lists and fancy techniques. The cuisine feels mindful and unfussy and I love it.

Most of the people in the Saveur Cookbook Club chose to start with savory recipes, but being the pastry chef that I am, I flipped straight to the back of the book and began devouring the desserts section. I decided to begin here, with the La Vina Cheesecake. La Vina is a restaurant in San Sebastian that is known around the world for this cheesecake. Different than the traditional cheesecake (Marti Buckley refers to it as a cross between a “NY cheesecake and a flan”) this one has no graham cracker/cookie crust, it’s ultra creamy and the custard is wrapped gently by a dark caramelized exterior.

how to make a basque-style cheesecake

Basque cheesecakes might even be simpler than regular cheesecakes. Without a crust, it’s really all about the filling. For this recipe, we combine cream cheese, sugar, eggs, heavy cream, and a bit of flour until it’s ultra smooth and creamy. The custard is then baked in a parchment-lined springform pan until its deeply browned and caramelized. Simplicity at its finest.

A quick tip for smooth cheesecakes: When mixing anything (but especially cheesecake) it is imperative that you scrape your bowl often. Cream cheese tends to hang out at the bottom of the bowl and there is nothing worse than pouring your batter into a pan only to find large clumps of cream cheese stuck to the sides and bottom of your mixing bowl. I usually scrape at least once when mixing the cream cheese and sugar, before adding eggs, halfway through adding the ends, before adding the cream, and after adding the cream. Remember: scrape well, scrape often! 

Yield: 8
Author: Anna Ramiz
La Viña Cheesecake

La Viña Cheesecake

Prep time: 10 MinCook time: 1 HourInactive time: 3 HourTotal time: 4 H & 10 M
A traditional Basque dessert recipe, this La Viña style cheesecake is a sweet, creamy treat. Baked without a crust for that "burnt cheesecake" quality, this is a great recipe for a traditional Basque cheesecake. Recipe from Marti Buckley’s Basque Country.

Ingredients

  • 1 3/4 cups (350 g) sugar
  • 2 1/4 lbs cream cheese, at room temperature
  • 1/4 tsp salt
  • 5 eggs, at room temperature
  • 2 cups heavy cream
  • 1/4 cup (30 g) all purpose flour

Instructions

  1. Preheat your oven to 400 degrees. Grease a 10-inch springform pan and line it with parchment paper. Make sure to fold the edges where the parchment begins to crease and trim it so that 2-3 inches are left hanging over the side. (This gives you that authentic, Basque-style look and means less work cutting parchment paper circles and strips.)
  2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat cream cheese for about 30 seconds to soften. Add sugar and then continue beating until smooth. *
  3. Add the salt and continue to mix. With the mixer running, add eggs one at a time, making sure that each is fully incorporated before adding the next one.
  4. When all of the eggs are combined, stream in the cream. Remove the bowl from the mixer and sift in flour. Fold in gently until no flour pockets remain.
  5. Pour the batter into your prepared pan and bake for 55-60 minutes, or until very browned and almost burned-looking on top. Start checking after 50 minutes and just keep an eye on it until its done. The center will still be jiggly, but it will set up as it cools.
  6. Cool cheesecake to room temperature (though it is also delicious chilled overnight and served cold). Before serving, remove outer ring from springform pan and gently tug parchment away from the sides.
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Fall Apple Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting and Salted Caramel

Inspired by my mom's famous apple bundt and Yotam Ottolenghi's apple and olive oil cake, this simple fall apple cake is the perfect September recipe. A dense, apple-studded cake, filled with warming spices, topped with a classic cream cheese frosting and swirled with salted caramel.

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RECIPE AND PHOTOS UPDATED SEPTEMBER 2021

I have a lot of very strong opinions about fall desserts. I love pulling on my boots, walking through crunchy leaves, and spices that warm you from the inside out, but —and I know that this might not be a popular opinion— pumpkin desserts are way overhyped. During the month of August, I drove past a local bakery marquee proudly proclaiming “Pumpkin is here!” In the month of August. In Florida. In 90 degree weather. Now, I am not a monster and I think pumpkins have their place in the fall dessert world, but I think that we miss a lot of wonderful seasonal produce in our mad-rush for everything pumpkin.

Late August and early September give us some of the year’s best tomatoes, end of season berries are begging to be stuffed into buttery little pie crusts, and it is prime apple season. This cake is here to help you take advantage of the apple bounty and ease you into fall at a leisurely pace. It was inspired by a spiced apple cake that my mom has been making for as long as I can remember and a really lovely apple olive oil cake created by Yotam Ottelenghi. Using olive oil gives the cake a moist, tender crumb while the egg whites provide a little extra structure and height. A slice of this is with a cup of coffee is a perfect start to your semi-fall morning and I promise, there will still be plenty of time for all that pumpkin.

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how to make homemade salted caramel

A batch of homemade salted caramel in your fridge is the secret weapon of fall baking that you didn’t know you needed. It’s perfect for swirling into cream cheese frosting on this cake, drizzling over ice cream or dolloping into brownies and it’s actually quite simple to make.

Making homemade caramel can be a bit daunting the first few times you do it though, so I created a helpful little video to provide some guidance on your journey. For this recipe, we used the dry caramel process which simply means that there is no water added to the sugar when cooking. We cook the sugar in a skillet with a larger surface area and let it caramelize on its own, agitating it as little as possible to help prevent that pesky crystallization. Then, we whisk in heavy cream, cook it a bit more until it reaches that deep amber color we all know and love, and then whisk in butter and salt. It’s truly as simple as that and it’s the gift that keeps on giving.

a few tips for making perfect caramel

  • Because caramel cooks so quickly, I like to get all of my tools and equipment ready beforehand. For this recipe, you'll need: a large skillet, a wooden spoon, a whisk, a cork or hotpad, bowls for your butter, sugar, and cream, and a clean bowl for your caramel to cool in.

  • When cooking sugar, remember that agitation = crystallization, which is what we are trying to prevent. Stirring your sugar as little as possible before it has dissolved is key to smooth caramel.

  • Out of fear of burning the caramel, many people don't cook their caramels long enough. I had a professor in pastry school who likened the process to adding cream to your coffee. When cooking the sugar, remember that you'll be adding cream which will lighten the color a bit. Cook your sugar until it is just one shade darker than you want your final product and then add the cream. I like my finished caramel to be a deep amber color (which you can see in the photos above).

  • Cleaning all of your sticky, sugar-laden dishes can be a pain! For easy clean up, fill your skillet with water and plop your sticky tools inside. Bring the water to a boil and then pour it out and wash your dishes. All of the caramel should come right off with the hot water.

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Fall Apple Cake
Yield
one 9x13" cake
Author
Anna Ramiz
Prep time
20 Min
Cook time
50 Min
Total time
1 H & 10 M

Fall Apple Cake

Inspired by my mom's famous apple bundt and Yotam Ottolenghi's apple and olive oil cake, this simple fall apple cake is the perfect September recipe. A dense, apple-studded cake, filled with warming spices, topped with a classic cream cheese frosting and swirled with salted caramel.

Ingredients

for the cake
  • 1 cup (200g) olive oil
  • 4-5 medium apples, peeled and cubed (about 600 g or 5 cups)
  • 1 3/4 cup (350g) sugar
  • 2 eggs
  • 2 egg whites
  • 2 1/2 cups (300 g) all purpose flour
  • 3/4 cup (75 g) spelt flour
  • 2 tsp ground cinnamon
  • 1/2 tsp ground all spice
  • 1/2 tsp grated nutmeg
  • 1/2 tsp ground cloves
  • 1 tsp ground cardamom
  • 1/2 tsp kosher salt
  • 1 tsp baking powder
  • 1 tsp baking soda
  • 1/2 cups (150g) chopped walnuts, toasted
for the frosting
  • 8 oz cream cheese, at room temperature
  • 4 oz butter, at room temperature
  • 1 1/2-2 cups (170g-227g) powdered sugar, sifted
  • 1 tsp vanilla
  • 1/2 tsp salt
for the salted caramel
  • 4 1/2 tbsp (65 g) butter
  • 3/4 cup plus 1 tbsp (160 g) sugar
  • 7 tbsp (100g) heavy cream
  • Pinch of salt

Instructions

to make the cake
  1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees grease a 9x13 baking pan and line with parchment paper.
  2. Sift together flour, cinnamon, all spice, nutmeg, cloves, salt, baking powder, and baking soda. Add chopped apples and toss to coat with flour, set aside.
  3. In the bowl of a stand mixer, using the paddle attachment, beat whole eggs, sugar, vanilla, and olive oil on medium speed for about 7 minutes, until the mixture is light in color and has almost doubled in size. Remove the bowl from the mixer and use a rubber spatula to scrape the bottom and sides of the bowl.
  4. Use a rubber spatula to gradually fold in dry ingredients and apples, followed by the toasted walnuts, until combined and no flour remains. The mixture will be very thick, but that’s okay because it will bake up beautifully with apples in every bite.
  5. Place the egg whites in a separate, clean bowl and whip until soft peaks form when you lift the whisk from the bowl. Gently fold the egg whites into the cake batter.
  6. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 50-60 minutes, or until a cake tester comes out clean and the edges of the cake start to pull away from the sides of the pan. Depending on how consistent your oven heats, baking time may very. Start checking your cake at 45 minutes and check every 5 minutes after until done.
  7. Cool cake completely before frosting.
to make the frosting
  1. In the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream together butter and cream cheese.
  2. Add powdered sugar, vanilla, and salt and beat until smooth and fluffy.
to make the caramel
  1. Set a large skillet over medium heat. Add half of the sugar in a single layer on the bottom of the skillet. Cook, without stirring, until the sugar begins to brown and liquify in the center of the pan. At this point, you can use a wooden spoon to gently scoot some of the sugar from the outer edges towards the center.
  2. When about 50% of sugar has liquified, you can add the remaining half of the granulated sugar, again in an even layer over the skillet.
  3. Continue cooking, stirring as little as possible, until all of the sugar has dissolved and the caramel is a deep amber color.
  4. Remove the caramel from the heat and carefully whisk in the heavy cream. This will bubble angrily, but that's okay! Return the skillet to the heat and cook for one more minute, until the caramel is smooth and has a deep brown color.
  5. Remove the caramel from the heat again and whisk in the butter, a few cubes at a time. When all of the butter is added, sprinkle in a big pinch of flaky salt and let cool. Store in a sealed jar in the fridge for up to two weeks.
to assemble
  1. Remove cooled cake from pan and place on a work surface.
  2. Use an offset spatula to smooth frosting over the top of the cake. (The best part of making your own cake is that you can use as little or as much frosting as you want!)
  3. To feather the caramel: place some of the caramel in to a piping bag and cut a small hole at the tip. Make horizontal lines across the cake, dragging your caramel drizzle all the way off the side of the cake before coming back across the other way. Continue your horizontal lines, evenly spaced, all the way down the length of the cake. Use the tip of a small paring knife, to drag vertical lines, alternating up and down, over the cake.
  4. To swirl it into the frosting: dollop caramel over the top of your frosting and use an offset spatula or the back of a spoon to swirl it into the frosted in a tie-dye fashion.

Notes:

  • My mom's original apple cake is baked in a bundt pan, but unfortunately, I don't have one! If you'd like to make this in bundt pan, it should work just fine--just be aware that baking times may differ. Start checking for doneness around the 40 minute mark, just to be safe.
  • When choosing what kind of apple to use, go with what you like. Everyone always says that you're supposed to bake with Granny Smiths but I don't like them so I don't. A mix of different types of apples would work really well in this recipe too!
  • If you don't have spelt flour, you can use a full 375 g of all purpose flour or you can substitute whole wheat flour or rye flour in its place.


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